Day 7 – Aix-en-Provence: Foie Gras…and a Hookah Lounge

We hated to leave the peace and quiet of Auberge, but we were ready to ride again.  The first stop on today’s route was a farmers’ market in the town of Lourmarin about 14 k away). Amazingly—considering the long downhill we had heading into our last hotel—most of the k’s to the first town were downhill.

We spent a good hour + at the market and picked up a picnic lunch of bread, meats, fruit, and pastries for later in the day (had to pass on the goat, puppy and bunny being paraded around for ‘donations’). Found some things we would like to have picked-up, but the whole bike/pannier thing limits purchases greatly.

[A note on how we packed.... The luggage arrangements definitely took some forethought/planning.  We each brought a standard size suitcase with us for riding and street clothes, bike helmets, etc.  When we arrived in Nimes, we were given a pannier to pack that would typically hold two days worth of clothing and supplies (and in my case a small laptop...I know, I know....).  Our suitcases would catch up with us every couple of nights to change out clean clothes. Of course the more you packed in the pannier, the more your were pedaling up the hills with you.]

The rest of the ride was moderate to challenging…lots of hills, but most not quite as long or steep as previous “big” hills. The gods were smiling (and spitting just a bit)...the temperature was mild; the skies were mostly cloudy; and it sprinkled lightly every few kilometers (the kind of weather we hope for now!).  It was never enough to get our clothes wet, but it kept us cool and made the hills a bit easier.

Also helping with the hills occasionally was music by Tiesto....I had loaded some Tiesto Club Life podcasts from iTunes before we left home...just for this purpose. We didn't listen to music that often on this trip,but sometimes it made the difference between making up the big hills in a single ride and stopping at some point for a "picture" (code word for stopping for a breather mid-hill).

We rode into Aix-en-Provence at about 2:00 in the afternoon and were greeted with lots of fast moving cars, horns (not always directed at us), and narrow streets. It was an adventure. Damon’s directions, as usual, got us where we were going—the Hotel de France.

After we checked in and stored our bikes, it was time to see as much of the city as we could in the short time we were there. Like the other cities we’ve been in Aix was expensive...probably more so than the others.  I came uncomfortably close to paying 70 Euros ($100 +) for a plain pair of Gap jeans (a whole other story I won’t bore with).

We finished the night with a three-hour dinner—two hours at the table waiting and one actually eating—at Le Zinc D’Hugo. Here we had an incredible plate of (yes, quite politically incorrect) foie gras (including foie gras ice cream), melon soup, and delicious scallops...unfortunately, the kitchen had a bit of a challenge with the shrimp as they were small, over-cooked, and just didn't taste good...at all. But, everything else was so good they’re forgiven.

After we left the restaurant we walked up the block for a new cultural experience…Hookah.  We found a great little Hookah lounge (mom: if you’re reading this please note that’s an “ah” not “er…big difference :-) We tried a melon Hookah and had some of the best mint tea I’ve ever had.

Finally, back to the ‘de France to pack and get ready for a series of train rides which will take us from Aix to Pisa by way of four trains in a 10-hour period.

Today was also John’s last day, but we didn’t get to see him before he took off. He said he’d check in when he got back. John: hope the trip back to CA wasn’t too bad. Be sure to say hi when you stop by to check up on us.

Hmmm, half way through the trip and we’re still here…hopefully a good sign.

Day 7 Stats:

• Ride Sheet - Buoux to Aix-en-Provence (49 k)
• Actual Ride - 49 k
• Lunch - Aix-en-Provence
• To Remember - Marketplace in Lourmarin, Picnic lunch in ?, Foie Gras, Hookah, Riding into Aix, Riding through Beaulieu Vineyards

Comments

[Gary B]

Very impressive! Sounds like you're really into this trip and haven't collapsed from exhaustion anywhere...always a good sign! Enjoy the rails and "see" you in Pisa.

[Steven]

Today was the toughest day....first 20 k were mostly uphill :-)

[Lyn de Blue Marble]

Steven, really, I think you should have written up how to toke the hook a little more; it's an art form that I spent a good hour or more demonstrating. Besides this one small critique, I'm now your blogs number 1 fan.

[Steven]

Thanks Lyn....I just need to get the photos from your demo off my phone and I'll post(!) You were so right about the food and change to hearty fare when we got into Italy....we miss the food from Provence.....

[dave auch]

yes - i want to see the hookah in actions!

:)