We woke to a beautiful sunny day and a fantastic breakfast at the hotel. Saw the whole group and talked about the day’s ride. We had a couple of options…a shorter ride to San Gimignano and back (about 28 k) or a longer ride to a city beyond. Since we missed San Gimi last time we were in Italy we decided to go there and just play the rest by ear…if we see the city and continue to ride to the next town, great. If not, we’d be happy with the 28 k (especially after the workout yesterday).
Surprise, surprise…we immediately started heading uphill after leaving Certaldo. According to the sign, we were heading up at a 12% grade. I’ve never really paid attention to what grade my hills have been (though I thought I recalled yesterday’s sign saying 10%), but even a 12% grade makes you pay attention. Wait until we get to the 20% grade later in the trip....
The ride was spectacular. We seemed to be riding up and along the peak of this hill as we saw these amazing panoramic views of Tuscan landscapes on both sides of us. Most of the 14 k to this town were uphill…especially when we got closer to the town proper. San Gimignano, as with many of the other towns we’ve seen on this trip, is at the top of a hill/mountain surrounded by a stone wall—basically another fortress.
We brought our bikes into the town and walked up to the main square area next to the San Gimi Cathedral and locked them up. We bought tickets to see the main cathedral in the 
center of town. As we went through the turnstile, the woman at the entrance said something to me as we walked towards the main door. I thought she said “Jesus”, which was fine and all, but I didn’t recall the ticket takers in other holy settings mentioning their boss. I just looked at her and smiled and she said it again—did she say “nieces”? No, it was “kneeses” (knees)…we were wearing shorts and would have to cover our knees if we wanted to enter the cathedral (same for women who also had to cover bare shoulders to enter).
She handed us each a medical-scrubs-blue-green disposable wrap that we put around our waists. Once she saw all four of our naked knees were covered she smiled and let us pass. The temporary discomfort of wearing a makeshift knee-covering skirt was offset by the incredible mural images inside. Damon was in heaven as this is his kind of thing and we hadn’t seen much of it this trip.
After getting a couple of pictures of us in the temp garb, we disposed of it and went in search of more culture. Instead, we ran into Leslie, Jan, and Brian (I didn't mean that the way it sounded!). We decided to have lunch together and found a decent restaurant with a great view. This was our (re)introduction to the coperta or servizio charge.
We finished lunch and parted ways again…still not sure if we would ride on or just hang in the town. The double scoop of mint and chocolate gelato helped us decide to stay around town and explore some more. Much of this city is very touristy (I guess like Manhattan) and the rest is very expensive (also like Manhattan), so I guess their claim to fame as the “Manhattan of Tuscany” could be considered accurate.
Seriously, it is a beautiful town with amazing views and a rich history and it was worth every pedal up to get there. Just before we got back on our bikes, we went to the Panoramic Point view area from the edge of town. It’s funny but on any other trip we would have ooh’d and ahh’d and taken pictures. On this trip, however, every day has been filled with these (and better) views that 100’s of others aren’t seeing in any given hour. We turned and left the view area without taking any photos.
The ride down was a treat for two reasons…1) about 11 of the 14 k back to Certaldo we downhill or flat roads, and 2) we left in time to get back to the hotel before the afternoon rains started. As we were riding the last (huge) hill into Certaldo, we felt the first raindrops…by the time we were at the hotel door, it was a steady rain. Fortunately, the rest of the “Blue Marbles” were not riding then and no one came in soaking wet.
Dinner that night was at a wonderful restaurant in Certaldo where we (again) ate too much but had a great time telling our stories from the day. That’s one of the nice things about a cycling vacation…you can eat basically anything you want knowing likely burn off many times the number of calories the next day.
Tomorrow we’re leaving our wonderful hotel and this beautiful village and heading to an equally wonderful—at least it was two years ago—Siena for three nights.
Day 10 Stats:
- Ride Sheet - Loop Day (28 - 88 k)
- Actual Ride - 30 k
- Lunch - San Gimignano
- To Remember - Cathedral frescoes, Knee covers, Lots of JR terriers, views to and from San Gimi, Dinner with the group
Damon looks just so thrilled. And sorry...the powder blue just isn't selling it for me! And where are the Steven pictures????? Have fun in Siena.
Posted by: Gary B | 2008.06.13 at 12:12 PM
Love the skirt, can you bring me home one. I think I can work that into a little something, something for the summer.
Are you loving Siena???????? Have a nice glass of red for me.
Posted by: Sue Gomlick | 2008.06.13 at 02:07 PM